DANIELLE OLIVIA TEFFT: JEWELRY WRITER & GIA ACCREDITED JEWELRY PROFESSIONAL
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Found In The Jewelry Box Blog

How to Distinguish Between Edwardian and Art Deco Jewelry

3/31/2015

18 Comments

 
By Danielle Olivia Tefft 

I see lots of online listings for antique and vintage jewelry that confuse Edwardian (1901-1910) style with Art Deco (1920-1939) style. It’s so easy to do, as both have many similarities. But both styles have distinct characteristics that make them different, as well. Here are some helpful tips for you when determining whether jewelry is from the Edwardian era or the Art Deco era:

Edwardian platinum and diamond ring
Fabulous Edwardian diamond and platinum dome ring.
Similarities:

Both Edwardian and Art Deco fine jewelry is often made of platinum. Upon the death of Queen Victoria, a new age of Opulence among the very wealthy began. It was spearheaded by the beautiful Queen Alexandra, King Edward’s wife. She wore exquisite jewelry dripping in diamonds and pearls.

Cartier, official jeweler of the British throne at the time, made most of it in platinum by a newly discovered process for working the extremely hard white metal. It was the perfect setting for diamonds and pearls. The look of platinum soon caught on with the general public on both sides of the Atlantic. P
latinum and white gold (starting in the Art Deco era) were the favorite fine jewelry metals until World War II.

Both Edwardian and Art Deco jewelry settings are often “lace-like” in appearance. Thank platinum for this feature which made it capable to create intricate details in jewelry without the heaviness of classical Georgian (1714-1837) pieces they imitated.

Both Edwardian and Art Deco jewelry often have fine millegrain detail work. Millegrain looks like tiny round beads set close together, often to form an ornate border.

Both Edwardian and Art Deco jewelry may have Asscher cut diamonds. The sensational Asscher eight- sided step cut was invented in 1902, during Edwardian times. It was an instant hit. But it became even more popular during the Art Deco era.

Art Deco diamond and sapphire ring from Yates & Co. Jewelers
Sensational Art Deco diamond and sapphire ring in 14K white gold. (Available at Yates & Co. Jewelers online)
Differences:

Edwardian jewelry has curved lines and features like floral vines, scrolls and loops.

Edwardian rings often have dome or navette (elongated oval) shapes.

Art Deco jewelry has straight lines and incorporates distinct geometric shapes like triangles, rectangles, octagons, hexagons and chevrons.

Art Deco fine jewelry often incorporates rectangular baguette shape and emerald cut diamonds. Art Deco costume jewelry incorporates glass gemstones in these shapes.

Art Deco jewelry can be made of white gold or platinum. White gold began to be sold commercially around 1912. It was most popular during the 1920s.


Hopefully these tips will help you tell the difference between Edwardian and Art Deco jewelry. Keep in mind that there are also transitional pieces that masterfully blend style elements of both time periods. When I come across this type of jewelry, I often categorize it as, “late Edwardian transitional” or “transitional early Art Deco.”

Do you have a favorite Edwardian or Art Deco piece of jewelry? If so please tell us about it and what characteristics make you love it so much in the comments section. And as always, please subscribe to this blog if you love antique and vintage jewelry as much as we do!

Picture
Danielle Olivia Tefft is a professional writer with a lifelong passion for gems, jewelry and fashion. She is a GIA accredited jewelry professional and the owner of online antique and vintage jewelry shop, Treasure Box Antiques. Current projects include ghostwriting jewelry and fashion blogs for clients worldwide. When she is not writing, she spends time in the garden, spoiling her cats and traveling with her significant other. Would you like to hire her to write for you? Visit her website danielleoliviatefftwrites.com for clips, terms and more information.


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18 Comments
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4/28/2015 05:44:18 pm

Great write-up.Thanks for sharing this concept.Really,Your weblog is just not only instructive but useful much too.

Reply
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6/17/2015 03:35:20 pm

But both styles have distinct characteristics that make them different, as well. Here are some helpful tips for you when determining whether jewelry is from the Edwardian era or the Art Deco era:

Reply
Ron Yates link
7/13/2015 06:03:46 am

Great article Danielle! These two time periods/styles are hard to differentiate and your info really helps.

Reply
Danielle Olivia Tefft link
7/13/2015 06:33:53 am

Thanks very much Ron!

Reply
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2/3/2016 12:12:21 am

This Edwardian diamond studded platinum ring has stolen my heart. I truly loved it from the bottom of my heart. That was nice you have listed the differences between them in a good way here.

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2/26/2016 03:19:16 pm

These are just a few of the questions your agency should be able to answer at any given time.

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3/4/2016 02:35:43 pm

Great article.

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3/16/2016 03:55:20 am

Which one do you prefer personally?

Reply
Kurt
11/11/2016 06:52:34 am

Thank you for posting this. There isn't much info online about the differences between Deco and Edwardian, so this was a really big help. thank you a million times over.

Reply
Danielle Olivia Tefft link
11/14/2016 03:11:09 am

You're very welcome! I'm so glad you found the article useful!

Reply
Christine
12/31/2016 05:53:58 pm

Your blog has confirmed for me what I believed were the major differences between the two periods. Now I have some backup when I get into 'discussions' with those who misname their jewelry when trying to sell!

Reply
Danielle Olivia Tefft link
1/1/2017 05:12:16 am

I'm so glad this article helped clarify things for you. Thank you for letting me know!

Reply
Ashley from Carus Jewellery link
5/22/2017 06:27:37 am

Hi Danielle, great check list. Thanks :)

Reply
Danielle Olivia Tefft link
5/22/2017 02:33:56 pm

I'm so glad you found it useful! Thank you for saying so!

Reply
Christina
7/8/2017 05:34:50 am

Thank you for writing this. I have 2 rings that I am curious about. The distinctions can be subtle between the 2 periods. One ring is white gold but has rounded lines, not angular and the second ring is a platinum, three diamond ring in an oval shape. Both have beading. I have loved this design forever and I finally got it from an estate, consignment case in our local jewelers a few months ago.

Reply
Danielle Olivia Tefft link
7/8/2017 07:52:27 am

Glad you enjoyed the article, Christina. As I mentioned in the last paragraph, some rings overlap both periods. If no prominent feature jumps out at you as being either style, the ring was probably made in the transitional years between periods. Your rings sound lovely!

Reply
Christina
7/8/2017 09:26:26 am

Danielle, Could I email a picture of each to you? I would love to get your thoughts?

Thanks again!

Danielle Lapidus link
7/8/2017 09:45:51 am

Christina,
You can send them to me at: info@danielleoliviatefftwrites.com.

You may also want to consider subscribing to the Found in the Jewelry Box Blog. You will get a Buyer Beware tip sheet for online vintage and antique jewelry buyers. I am also in the process of completing a free resource library for subscribers! I should be rolling out in the next month or so.


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