Diamonds: All About that Fabulous Pear Cut

By Danielle Olivia Tefft, Jewelry Writer

An absolutely stunning lab created pear cut diamond halo ring. (From Artfire.com)

The pear cut was invented in Belgium during the 15th century by the Flemish diamond cutter Lodewyk van Bercken. This clever craftsman is more famous for his invention of the scaif, a manually operated polishing wheel for diamonds. The scaif’s secret sauce was olive oil mixed with diamond dust and it revolutionized the diamond cutting industry. 

Three gorgeous fancy pear cut diamond halo rings. (From aliexpress,com)

 I am so grateful to van Bercken for the pear cut. It’s always been one of my favorites for diamonds and many other gemstones. And I’m not alone! Throughout history, famous women have favored swoon-worthy pear cut diamonds for their adornment. This long list includes the legendary Elizabeth Taylor. It also includes current celebrities like Victoria Beckham, Jessica Simpson and Katherine Heigl.

Diagram of the pear cut showing all facets on crown and pavillion. (From the Diamondcuts.com)

There are typically 58 facets on the crown of a pear cut diamond. They encircle a rather large flat but irregular shaped table in the center.

One of the biggest concerns when buying a pair shaped diamond is known as the “bow-tie” effect. This is the appearance of two black triangles with the tips touching in a bow-tie shape. All pear cut diamonds (and other elongated diamond cuts, as well) have some level of bow-tie effect in the center. It is caused by facets in the pavilion that don’t catch light, no matter how the stone is positioned.  Since this phenomenon is judged by the naked eye, it’s a matter of personal preference how much is acceptable or attractive.

A dazzling yellow diamond pear cut diamond halo ring. (Available at Yates & Co. Jewelers online.)

You’ll find many sources stating that the proper way to wear a pear cut diamond on your finger is to have the point towards your body. My personal preference is to do the opposite, since wearing a pear cut diamond point down looks like an upside down raindrop to me. I much prefer to view it as if it just fell from the sky onto my finger! Plus, most pear cut pendants and earrings are set like raindrops, as well. The bottom line is you should wear your pear cut diamond the way you want to!

Do you own a pear cut engagement ring or other piece of jewelry with a fabulous pear cut diamond? Or perhaps you have a treasured pear cut gemstone other than a diamond. Tell us about it in the comments section. And if you love jewelry as much as we do, please sign up for this blog so you don’t miss an article!

Danielle Olivia Tefft is a professional writer with a lifelong passion for gems, jewelry and fashion. She is a GIA accredited jewelry professional and the owner of online antique and vintage jewelry shop, Treasure Box Antiques. Current projects include ghostwriting jewelry and fashion blogs for clients worldwide. When she is not writing, she spends time in the garden, spoiling her cats and traveling with her significant other. Would you like to hire her to write for you? Visit her website danielleoliviatefftwrites.com for clips, terms and more information.

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